A guide to whole cloth quilts
One of the quilting styles brought to the New World by European immigrants was the whole cloth quilt. Originally these quilts were made of wool and wool batting, with quilting stitches that were both decorative and practical. Sometimes the wool fabric would be starched or pressed with an iron to achieve a shiny surface called “Calamanco”. Many times bold colors were used such as indigo and red. Petticoats were often made of quilted red fabric and dresses were designed to show the intricately quilted undergarment. This highly decorated petticoat attested to the sewing skills of the wearer, or to her social status. Eventually as they faded these petticoats were sewn together to make quilts.
As the whole cloth quilt evolved, it became traditional to use very light or white linen with white thread. These quilts were referred to as “White Work Quilts”. They evolved into showcases of beautiful stitches and elaborate design, usually radiating from a central medallion with repeating motifs of flowers and geometric shapes.
These designs were densely quilted by hand to form light and shadow on the surface of the quilt. Some areas of the design were highlighted by adding extra wool or cotton batting from the back of the quilt, using a small tool called a “bodkin”. This tool was used to lightly pierce the back layer of the quilt, and extra batting was “stuffed” into the areas the quilter wanted to “bring forward”. This technique allowed some areas of the quilt to have a three dimensional or bas relief appearance. This technique is called “Trapunto”. Modern methods have improved the technique so that it is no longer necessary to pierce the quilt backing, and Trapunto reliefs are still used in many couture quilts.
In the Nineteenth century, patchwork quilts became popular because of their simplicity, frugality and warmth. At the same time, whole cloth quilts were transformed from utilitarian items to showcases of genteel needlework. Women would gather to work on an heirloom quilt for a soon to be married couple so that it could be kept and treasured forever, an heirloom for generations to come. Many of these quilts are still in existence today.
In recent years, there has been a revival of interest in heritage quilting. While we now have the luxury of many types of quality fabrics, threads and battings, White work whole cloth quilts with traditional stitching and Trapunto reliefs still set the standard for tradition and beauty. One benefit of modern materials is that, with proper care, these new quilts will actually outlast the older quilts.
The amazing beauty of the white work whole cloth quilt, with intricate stitching and Trapunto reliefs showcasing traditional motifs and visual elements, still enhances and commemorates any occasion and provides an heirloom that can be treasured for generations.
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